I am just home again after a quite hectic week at work, which has been a part of a very hectic period, with lots of travelling, both domestic and abroad. In between I have also managed to complete my planned tour to the Western Front, in which I took along some very good friends and colleagues from work, to show them a part of my research, but also showing them the terrain and places I so often talk about.
Even if they have a quite good knowledge of warfare in general, they are more into the second world war, and also what is happening in the current conflict areas. In this case their knowledge about the Great War was a bit limited, but I am sure they know more now, after have been travelling with me and got some basic knowledge about a small area of the Western Front. However, this small area of the front, in Belgium and a bit of northern France, contains a huge amount of events which in this case also involves small sequences of Swedish presence.
It was a great pleasure for me to do this trip with them, and it increased my mental platform in how to plan and perform upcoming tours when acting as a guide. They gave me some different points of view on certain things, and how to fulfill the different needs of information and knowledge based on each individual expectations.
In my plan I scheduled in visits to places, with connections to Swedes, but also sites that I thought could be of interest to have seen and experienced. The plan was a bit flexible and quite basic, but to prepare myself for some discussions and questions I also brought some guide books about the areas.
But one thing I definitely will look into much more next time are the facts about the battles in more detail. I have concentrated on the individual perspective, in some connection to the terrain, and the general information about the battles, but I realize now that I have to study more details about the specific units in which the Swedes fought. I have seen this coming as natural step in my research, as I until now have been much more concentrated on the individuals and their Swedish history.
I am very grateful for getting those insights during this tour as the curiosity from my friends helped me taking this next step. Although, In my recent tours it has been a good level of facts, but if I decide to step up and now start my business for real as a guide on the battlefield, I have to more deeply consider what target audience I will have and their eventual needs. At the same time I will not be afraid of using the built in knowledge in every tour, within the participants. For me that is very important.
Let me take you through the tour in a couple of small steps, adding some reflections to each of them.
It starts with the very good feeling to finally be on our way after have been talking about this for a long time. There are a lot more colleagues that have talked to about this, but this time it turned out to be four of us to make the tour this time. It has to suit both in time and activities in the general life.

We took the car to Malmö in Sweden and took the train in the morning over to Copenhagen Airport, as I was quite lucky to find decent tickets on the flights from this airport. I kept all the bookings together for all of us, and due to the activities in the Middle East the prices increased rapidly after I made the bookings.
I booked an apartment just within 100 m from Menin Gate in Ypres, Belgium, and I had a nice view from my bedroom window. It was plenty of space for all of us with a modern layout and a nice kitchen. This became our base for our four days of travel. It was also easy to park for free just a couple of hundred meters down the same street. No worries about getting a penalty fee for parking on wrong hours.



First Day
I had a thought to build my plan in a chronological order, but I later decided to put in the stops more based on locations. We started the first day, the same day as we arrived, to visit sites along the road. After an hour in the car and a quick lunch, we first stopped at the beautiful Flanders Field American Cemetery to commemorate the four Swedes who are buried there. I told the story about the Swedes and some information about the different battles they participated in Between August and November 1918. We especially commemorated the soldier I have adopted, the Swedish born Ringius Williams (Ringius Johansson-Wilhelmsson) with some simple, yet beautiful, flowers. It is always nice to visit them.



On the way to Ypres we passed the village of Menen and stopped by the German Cemetery of Menen, which is a huge cemetery with its special characteristics of a German War cemetery, quite dark with a lot of dense, in this case, oak trees. In this cemetery I have been able to locate one Swedish born soldier so far, Markus Grundberg.




A very special stop we made at the Spoilbank Cemetery at the northern part of the area called the Bluff, just south-east of Ypres. On this trip I was joined by Lars, a person who is connected to one of the women who during the war were sending gifts to the soldiers at the front during the war. The grandmother of Lars’s wife, Mrs Bowick, received cards back from the soldiers as a thank you for the gifts, and I have been given the opportunity to go through this amazing collection of the cards, still taken care of by the family today. You can read more about the cards in the article here.
Some of the soldiers who sent a card back to Mrs Bowick fell during the war. One of them, Pte Brewin was one of those who fell in the war, and we took the opportunity to visit and commemorate him during our tour. This was a very special moment.


During the afternoon the first day of the tour, we continued to visit some more places with Swedish connections, and some other nice locations, like museums and restaurants.
During trips like this I am always fortunate to bump into some friends from the Great war community, and this tour was no exception. I met up with Paul Swann, who at the moment stayed at the Talbot House in Poperinge, who kindly organized a free visit to the museum and the house of Talbot House, with great support from the personnel. Thank you very much for this, Paul!
Below you will find some photos from the afternoon that day.







Second Day
We started our second day of the tour to visit some of the places connected to the battle of Messines Ridge 1917, which involved Swedish born soldiers in the Australian Imperial Force (AIF). We visited the two Swedes at the Messines Ridge NZ memorial Cemetery, Nils Lundius and Per Conrad Hedberg. We also brought a special token from New Zealand which I had promised Wendy Maddocks to do. Always good to put the presence of today on to the historical site from the past.







Between The area of Messines in Belgium and the area of Fromelles in France, we passed the French Cemetery of Cite Bonjean, in the town of Armentieres, to take photo of one of the three Swedes buried at the cemetery. Since I visited the cemetery the last time, I have now discovered the third one and I needed a photograph of him. His name was Bernhard Richard Zackrison and he fell for the AIF in late september 1916, from enemy shelling in the area, during Australian pioneer activities.


We arrived to Fromelles VC Corner Cemetery and stayed for a quite long time in the area which I find really interesting. We stood at the Australian memorial for a long time, discussing the different fronts, to understand which terrain belonged to who.
This is definitely one of the areas I will look more into, to understand some of the darkest days in Australian Great War History, July 19th to 20th, 1916. Four Swedes has their names on the VC Corner Australian Cemetery and Memorial. George Anderson, Charles Franklin (Fryklund), Axel Olof Ohlson and Andrew Olsen. (Andrew Olsen’s brother, Peter Olsen, fought for New Zealand, and is buried at Tyne Cot Cemetery, North of Ypres.)



As the schedule was packed with places to visit, we continued down to the Arras area, to visit the Canadian Memorial at Vimy Ridge. It is always nice to visit the education centre nearby to get the story of the battle and the trenches in the area.
We also visited the Memorial of Moroccan Division with the special plaque with Swedish text, as a commemoration to the Swedes in the French Foreign Legion, who fought within the division. The Canadian Memorial contains the name of 16 Swedes who fought and fell for the Canadian Force but have no known grave. It is a great memorial.
We also bumped into some other Swedish friends from the Swedish Armed Forces, at the education centre! Sometime the world is very small.




On the afternoon of the second day we turned back towards Ypres, and took the time to pass some other great sites in the area. Like Cabaret-Rouge cemetery, where we visited two Swedes buried in the cemetery, Olaf (Olof) Nyblad and John Fredrick Sjolin (Johan Fredrik Sjölin).
We continued up through the area of Ploegsteert Woods, visited the area of one of the Christmas Truce places that occurred along the front, including the Hideous Football Memorial. I will not give myself into this debate, but I thought it would be nice to show my friends this area. It is always nice to visit the Wooden Cross erected on the site nearby, by an organisation including the historian Taff Gillingham, which is erected on the actual site of the event of the Christmas Truce activities in this specific area. Even if the truce and fraternization actually happened, there is no photographic evidence of soldiers playing football.
The day ended attending the very nice and crowded Last Post ceremony at eight o’clock in the evening, after a short rest in the apartment. We also visited some of the names of 22 Swedish born soldiers commemorated on the memorial. Before we went home I had booked a table at ´t klein Stadhuis Restaurant for dinner, very nice as always. I think we slept well that night, I know that I did.









The Third Day
We decided to start our morning quite early, to have time to visit all the areas and activities that I had put into the schedule for this day. It was mainly planned for follow the events and places connected to the third battle of Ypres, especially the battle of Passchendaele. Before we looked more into that specific battle, we visited the German Cemetery in Langemark and the Canadian Memorial north of Ypres, the memorial erected in memory of the first gas attack in 1915.
I wanted my friends to experience the environment and the information about those places, to increase their knowledge about things they may have read about earlier. After those places we went to the area closer to the village of Passchendaele, where we stopped at the Passchendaele Canadian Memorial, one of eight similar memorials throughout the Ypres Salient. Here I told the stories about several Swedish born soldiers who fought for the Canadian and Australian Forces, within the third battle of Ypres. We visited both the Passchendaele New British cemetery and Tyne Cot Cemetery before we decided to have a lunch at the restaurant De Dreve near Polygon Wood. Before lunch we visited the Passchendaele Memorial War Museum.
One of the sites I really enjoyed was the was this Museum, which has been renovated and become very informative and fresh, with new displays och digital creations. If you area in the area, don’t hesitate in visiting this museum
After lunch we also visited the memorial about the Brother in Arms, a memorial organized by Johan, who has the restaurant, which has become a large and well visited place, and tells the story about two brothers from Australia. One of the brothers were found in archaeological excavations and later on identified. You can read more about the story here.
If you have lunch at this restaurant, don’t miss out the private battlefield objects display on the upper floor, a very special place to visit.










Before this small tour I spent a lot of time to find more about the Swedes who fought on the German side in the Great War. I have looked through a lot of archives and have been able to find individuals to add to my database.
One of the names I found was the Swedish born soldier Emion Nielson (Emian Nilsson), who probably took his surname after his mother Dorothea Nildotter. Emian was born in Tving parish in Karlskrona area in the Landscape of Blekinge. He was initially noted as missing in action but was later declared “not missed, wounded”. He died of his wounds in October 10, 1917. I will try to cover more information about Emion in later articles.
He is today buried at the German Cemetery in Hooglede, north of Roeselare in Belgium, not very far from Ypres. The plan included a visit to this cemetery as well, to take a photo of his headstone, and to visit the cemetery in general.



On our way back to the apartment and the planned dinner in Ypres, we passed the Sanctuary Wood Museum, with its special content and the famous remains of the trenches in the nearby wood, included in the museum entrance fee. Well worth a visit.
However, a tour with Army engineers, as we are, is not complete without a visit to the Royal Engineer Memorial near Bellewaarde Ridge. This concluded our visits in the terrain. It is always nice to walk in the terrain nearby the memorial, which clearly still shows the traces of the war, and you don’t have to look very close to find shrapnels from the grenades, still present in the fields.
The evening ended with a very nice dinner together with another friend, Wayne Shaw, who I met on the Old Frontline meet up in 2024, led by Paul Reed, who is a great historian. He has inspired me a lot when it comes to what I do within my own project. It was really nice to meet up with Wayne, who continued his trip further down the battlefield areas.




The Last Day
A tour is not complete without a visit to Saint George’s Chapel in Ypres, which is a unique site when it comes to commemoration of the soldiers. We were lucky to meet up with the reverend Richard Clement who gave us a small tour about the chapel, and how they look at the future, when it comes to space for all the memorial signs that people wants to put up in the chapel. We said goodbye to Richard and started our way back to the airport with a lot of different thoughts in our heads.




Conclusion
In many ways this tour affected me a lot. To do this with close friends was very nice. Finally I could show them all the sites that I have visited and talked about all years, even if I only could show them 25 percent of all the sites that I have visited throughout the years. I learned a lot from their input and questions during the tour and they gave me leads in how to perform these type of tours in the future, as we discussed how to handle different target audience, and what type of trips I could prepare further on, if and when I decide to start my own business.
I have to confess that this means a lot to me, I am totally grabbed by the subject of the Great war, and all connected to it, and this tour has certainly strengthened it. The company of my friends have developed me as a person and a future guide, and I hope I will be able to fulfill my dream. I am sure my friends brought home their own experience and it may have increased their knowledge in the subject.

Thank you.














































